Image Quality Control
This section is for those of you that like to shoot using the JPEG format rather than RAW. If you shoot 100% in RAW then you can disregard this section for the most part.
Turn Warm Cast in Auto White Balance Off (recommended)
The first thing I noticed when using the EM1 was the warm cast auto W/B gave my images. You really notice this when photographing things like red flowers that will end up looking over saturated. If you’d like to turn off the warm cast you can do so like this:
Menu – Custom Menu – G – Scroll Down To Keep Warm Color – Select Off – Press OK
Auto ISO Adjustments
One of the great things the EM1 has going for it (there are many) is the 5 axis image stabilization that allows you to hand shoot scenes at slower shutter speeds than you’d have been comfortable with any other camera. With that being said, you will still find times where you need to bump the ISO up to keep shutter speeds from dropping below what the 5 axis stabilization can compensate for. The EM1 handles up to ISO 6400 really well from my initial testing. Auto ISO comes preset with a ceiling of 1600. Here is how you adjust the presets:
Menu – Custom Menu – E – ISO Auto Set – Choose the Highest You’d Like to Go (I use 4000 but I don’t really use auto ISO… ever)
Selecting the Best Quality JPEG File Type
Olympus gives us a bunch of options for the quality of JPEG we’d like to use. My opinion is I didn’t spend $1,400 for a camera to take small compressed images with. If you feel the same way and would like the absolute highest quality JPEG images from the EM1 then you’ll need to follow these two steps:
1.) Menu – Custom Menu – G – Select the First Option that Says Set – Under the Number 1 Change the box next to L to SF
2.) Menu – Shooting Menu 1 – Select the Fourth Icon Down – Still Picture – Choose L SF – Press OK
(L SF stands for Large Super Fine and refers to the size of the JPEG as well as the amount of compression, SF has the least amount of compression of all the JPEGs)
If you don’t do a lot of post processing then I would probably recommend leaving the cameras noise presets as they are. If, on the other hand, you like to have a bit more control of the final image then I would recommend adjusting the Noise Filter to Low. This is how:
Menu – Custom Menu – E – Noise Filter – Low (or off)
Turn Off Image Stabilization for Tripod Mounting
It’s a good idea to turn off image stabilization while the camera is mounted on a tripod because the act of trying to stabilize the camera can actually introduce micro shake to the camera while it’s mounted. Here is how to do that:
Menu – Shooting Menu 2 – Image Stabilizer – Still Picture – Off
If you decide to turn the noise filter down to low or off you may want to reduce the amount of sharpening as well, this is personal preference. Here is how:
Access the Super Control Panel by Pressing OK – Select the Icon that Has an S and a + – Sign on Top of Each Other – Select -1
WiFi Settings – Pairing Camera to Smart Phone
One of the new, much appreciated, additions to the EM1 that the EM5 was lacking is the addition of WiFi. You can now easily pair your smart phone to the EM1 by using the Olympus Image Share app for Android, iPhone, iPad, and the iPod touch and control most of your cameras manual settings. Here is what you do to pair your phone:
Open App Store – Search for the Olympus Image Share App and Download it – Open the App and Press the Use Now Button – Line up the Square Outline with the QR Code on Your Camera – Close the App after You’ve Downloaded the Package (it will have EM1 and a bunch of numbers in it) – Go to WiFi Settings on Your Phone and Select the WiFi Network that Matches the Package Name You Downloaded – Once Connected Open the Olympus Image Share App Again – Select Remote Control
Menu – Playback Menu – Connection to Smartphone – Scan Code With Smart Device
If you are not planning on using the WiFi setting you can turn it off and possibly preserve a little battery power by doing this:
Menu – Setup Menu – WiFi Settings – Off
Time-Lapse User Guide
To set up the time-lapse function do this:
Menu – Shooting Menu 2 – Time lapse settings – You can either turn it on and press enter or select on and hit the right arrow to change the settings
If you decide to change the settings you’ll find Frames (the number of shots you want your time-lapse to consist of), Start Waiting time (a timer that tells your camera when to begin the time-lapse), Interval time (the amount of time between each shot), and time-lapse movie (on will compile the shots into a movie at the end).
Once you’ve got the time-lapse up and running you can hit the menu button mid time-lapse and it will cancel the process… if you’re impatient. Enjoy!
Note: If you will be doing time-lapse photography for extensive periods of time and need extra power you have two options, either the HLD – 7 battery grip or the optional power cord (AC adapter AC-3).
HDR User Guide
You’ve got a couple of options with HDR, you can either have the camera exposure bracket a few images and combine them manually in post processing (recommended) or you can have the camera do it for you. The image you see in the viewfinder will differ from the final processed image so don’t worry if you don’t notice a difference when you are framing.